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Frame: Paint / Finish Poll
 


Most durable frame finish ?
Generic Enamel
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
Powder Coated
23%
 23%  [ 5 ]
Dupont Imron
9%
 9%  [ 2 ]
Titanium Polished
4%
 4%  [ 1 ]
Titanium Brushed or Satin
61%
 61%  [ 13 ]
Total Votes : 21

Author Thread Post new topic Reply to topic
Locke
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 26

1/14/04 9:25 PM

Frame: Paint / Finish Poll

Let's see what the consensus is for perceived frame finish durability for a road bike.

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greglepore
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 1694
Location: SE Pa, USA

1/14/04 10:00 PM

Your kidding, right?

What beside brushed ti can you clean up with a scotchbrite pad?

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KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3076
Location: Midland, MI

1/14/04 10:52 PM

It's no contest - brushed Ti

I can see how some people like colors (of paint) and I am getting push back from my wife when I suggest a Ti bike (she wants colors!). But after 6 seasons and well over 50K miles, my brushed Ti looks like new. In my book, that can't be beat compared to what painted anything or chipped up CF would look like.

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Erik Singletary
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 1168
Location: Podunk,SC

1/15/04 5:18 AM

Polished and Brushed Ti are

Un-Finished , powdercoat is the best finish

Last edited by Erik Singletary on 1/15/04 9:01 AM; edited 2 times in total

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pete hausner
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 1547
Location: Outer Beantown

1/15/04 6:08 AM

Hmmm...

Finish connotates the final surface end product, IMHO. Consequently, a "finished" brushed Ti bike has a brushed finish...

Might be somewhat circular, but I think that it's right...

Ahhh, semantics. Ahhh, pissing around over words...Where's Nitabach when we need him?

;>)

PH

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/15/04 8:35 AM

re: "Un-Finished powdercoat"


quote:
Un-Finished powdercoat is the best finish


Do you mean like clear PC on the what-ever frame material?

-Bob

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Erik Singletary
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 1168
Location: Podunk,SC

1/15/04 8:50 AM

needs a ,

I used to edit that stuff all the time when I re-read my post now I have not because of the edit count, silly on my part. I really should fix it.

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/15/04 9:01 AM

My observations

Let me 1st say, I am talking about a bike which really gets used, including rain, winter riding etc...

I always leaned to ti for a finish which wouldn't scratch. This is what I learned. Ti wise: I have had brusted, satin, and polished TI.

Ti:

Polished : I found myself polishing marks that would probably have been scratches in other finishes. All the time though, It bothered me when the finish showed marks, and I expected a mirror like look for the cost.

Satin : This finish would just get dirty and discolored easily, so frequent re-decals and Orange Clean baths with scotchbrite pads to keep it from looking like dirt where the result.

Brushed : Now this one truely stayed clean, and didn't accept dirt, and scratches were easily just brushed out with a scotch-brite pad. This seemed easiest out of the three.

Carbon Clearcoated
Each carbon bike I had I was continually using touching up. It seemed like a weekly ritual of cleaning and using clear or paint if it was painted. Seemed like the paint just didn't want to stick to it really.

Baked on Enamel
This was among the best finishes, very good on my various CAAD 3-4 frames. But the Fuji Scandium frame I had really had a durable finish for what ever reason, and not as heavy a finish as the C-dale I had. With the Fuji frame, the nicks and usual stuff was at a bare minimum after 2 heavy seasons.

Powder Coat
My Strong Foco frame is my only experience with PC [unless you want to count the Western plow]. I was told this stuff was durable by Strong Cycles.
I was actually concerned at the time that it would add too much weight to the frame, LOL. What amazes me is 3 years later, there is not a nick in the paint on this bike, this finish seems bionic to me. I thought for sure I'd see an issue where the squewer can and does hit the breezer style dropout cup in the rear; it just looks a vulnerable area to me. But nada...


Ciao, Bob


Last edited by Sparky on 1/15/04 9:54 AM; edited 1 time in total

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/15/04 9:04 AM

re: because of the edit count

Man, I type so fast and inaccurately, not mention I speel poorly, I probably hold the record for edits on posts. ;)

-Bob

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JimP
Joined: 14 Jan 2004
Posts: 5
Location: Southlake, TX

1/15/04 9:18 AM

My favorite isn't listed - natural carbon fibre

Jim
Aegis Aro Svelte - bionic weave, Nimble Crosswinds, Kestrel bars, Deda Clip Black, USE Alien Carbon.

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Dave B
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 4511
Location: Pittsburgh, PA

1/15/04 9:30 AM

Brushed Ti

I would choose a brushed finish on any new Ti bike. My Litespeed Catalyst ('96 vintage) came with a bead blasted mat finish that has held up well except for a few "polished" areas on the chainstays where my heels brush them occasionally. However, this finish is not "user servicable" as it is done in a special blast cabinet. A brushed finished can be restored anytime with a Scotchbrite pad.

Ironically, IIRC, in '96 Litespeed did the bottom of their line (Catalyst) and top of their line (Vortex) in this finish and everthing in between was satin or polished.

For some time Litespeed didn't offer the bead blast finish on anything but it seems to be back. The new "Firenza" I saw appears to be finished this way.

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Steve_A
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 25
Location: Kensington, MD

1/15/04 1:19 PM

Painted Ti

When I got my bargain Performance Ti frame, I "brushed" it myself with scotchbrite-like pads. It had a bead-blasted finished that looked dull. Figured I didn't have anything to loose. The brushing job came out fine. But I got tired of that look, and eventually had it painted by Airglow, with automotive paint. I'm very happy with the look, and it's held up fairly well. The few chips were my fault. If I had it to do over, I might go with powdercoat, but cost was a factor and with all things considered, Airglow was the best deal for me. When I paint my singlespeed, it'll be do-it-yourself from a spraycan. Will probably post some questions about that here. I like color. Steve Alkire

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/15/04 1:44 PM

FWIW, DIY painting

I had painted a few items in the past, Motorcycle wheels, bicycle framee etc.
The two projects which where most durable 'finish wise' where the 2 items I actually baked in my oven @ 250^ for about 45 minute each. The bicycle frame was a BMX made of heavey steel, I'd be reluctant to try that on a Foco Frame as thin as the tube's walls get in places. Especially if I was to ride on Nate's wheel when he and Fred S. are Bombing the Tandem down a 5% grade.

-Bob

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jimbo
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3208
Location: SW Virginia

1/15/04 5:01 PM

This poll confused me

Okay, I only got to vote once and I picked powdercoat. However, I have an old chrome-moly frame, a polished ti frame and a brushed ti frame.

Now, how come I only got one vote?????

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/15/04 5:29 PM

Re: I only got to vote once

Were they all 'The Most Durable' ? Or was any one most durable?
Definately expound in the body of your message...

Ciao, Bob

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jimbo
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3208
Location: SW Virginia

1/16/04 10:30 AM

Subjective Response

Okay, it seems that I'm full of opinions. I like the powdercoat because Don Ferris did an excellent job of constructing the frame and equipping it for me. He knew better what I wanted than I did.

The most durable, in my history, is the Litespeed Ultimate. It has been through a couple of crashes and it still looks very well with a polished finish. I use this bike when I'm in good shape. Of course, foolish me, I'm using it in AZ now when I'm in bad shape.

While I was talking to Don about a touring bike, I had a chance to go on a tour with the White Clay Bicycle Club in Delaware, with members living in Delaware, Maryland, Pennsylvania and New Jersey. Of course, I've missed a couple of states.

Because I was going on a tour, I bought a Litespeed Blue Ridge and took it. It is a very good rider and I enjoy it. I usually use this bike for the hilliest rides and when I'm not in good shape. It has a triple on it. When I catch myself not using the smallest chainring, I am likely to switch to the Ultimate for daily riding, even in the hills.

The chrome moly would be at the bottom of the heap since it was built around 1974. It has a flexy frame. It was a very nice bike when I bought it. It was my first serious bike after riding Schwinns for years, as in the Schwinn Varsity. I graduated to the Fuji Finest when I was earning some money. However the Fuji was the most flexible frame.

While I like the Anvil with the powder coat the most, it's looking so good that I am reluctant to ride it. I want it to keep looking that good. How's that for being foolish?

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 17968
Location: Portland, OR

1/17/04 12:37 AM

re: beside brushed ti can you clean up with a scotchbri

Once a year I used to clean my entire satin Ti with Orange clean and a scotchbrite, wash it , dry it, and put decals on. Would look lusterous when finished. Now I just clean the Powder Coated Strong frame, a lot less work...

-Bob

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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3677
Location: Brooklyn, NY

1/17/04 6:38 AM

Does paint fade?

Do painted finishes fade over time? Maybe it's just me, but I would swear that the red paint on my bicycle has gotten lighter and more orangey since I first bought it about five years ago.

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Steve_A
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 25
Location: Kensington, MD

1/17/04 7:06 AM

Fading Paint

Some red auto paints fade and oxidize with time. This used to be more of a problem than it is now. I guess it depends on the type of paint used on your bikes. Steve

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