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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real8/25/19 6:07 PM |
Blast from the past, tech question
I scored a 2005 Cannondale F600 at an Estate Sale. Literally new condition. It was never ridden and stored in a dark closet since bought.
The Headshok is perfect, holds air, rebound is right etc. just like the day it rolled out of the shop.
The groupo is typical XT Deore 9sp out back on Deore disk hubs with Avid Mech disks that work perfectly.
My only complaint is the rear drivetrain is making crunching noises under torque loads.
I stripped the rear hub down today and replaced all the grease (it was still good!)
Pulled the freehub and lubed the spline interface to the hub.
Greased the splines on the cogs where the interface with the freehub.
Of course I adjusted the bearings and greased them.
It still has a faint crunching noise. Something is amiss.
The bottom bracket is my next stop because these noises can translate to other places.
Thoughts on making it go away beyond my hit list?
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX8/25/19 7:37 PM |
Make sure it isn't the pads on the rotor. Could possibly be that not all the pawls are engaging and causing some tilt upon power?? Fix for that [quick] is flush freehub with cassette off laying freehub up on a bucket. If you used WD 40 make sure to spray something like Lithium spray in while sideways after the WD40 flashes off...
Hello BTW. ;)
Enjoy some dirt...
I'd add that if never used, the pads certainly were never bedded.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real8/26/19 4:14 AM |
Not the brakes. Note, under load from pedaling.
The brakes will pull your eyes out the front of your head. I had to bed them myself and they are good. They squalled at first and I did the water trick in the road in front of the house.
I will pull the freehub and try the flush trick.
Last edited by ErikS on 8/26/19 8:02 AM; edited 1 time in total
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH8/26/19 5:43 AM |
If it's never been ridden, perhaps the drivetrain just needs to break-in a bit. I'd just go out and ride it.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real8/26/19 8:01 AM |
I thought of that also. WTH I will just ride it a bit more.
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dan emery
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 6890
Location: Maine8/26/19 8:16 AM |
Agree with Brian
I'm less technically savvy than you guys, but IME noises like that just ride themselves out sometimes.
Plus that comports with my longtime strategy of trying the easiest thing first.
Good to hear from you, Erik.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX8/26/19 5:19 PM |
Nice to see you Erik, had to look, but a year apparently.
Hope all is going well.
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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal8/28/19 12:29 AM |
With the9s and disc brakes, sounds like1998 or later(?).
There are two ways to get lube into the freehub body. On lower-level hubs you can drip in oil past the shielding adjacent to the spokes, try for about ten drops of non-thickening oil like 3-in-one or 5w30.
On the better hubs there will be a rubber seal there, so the oil has to go in from the outer end of the freehub. The path for the oil is the annular space between the bearing cup and the freehub body outer shell (just behind the axle cone shield/seal). Assuming here that the annular space hasn't been clogged with grease from an, ahem, exuberant rebuild, remove the axle and drip 10 drops of oil behind the shield with the hub held horizontal. Then slowly tip the hub so that the oil will run into the freehub body bearings and pawls. It would also be advisable to tighten the hollow freehub body retaining bolt using a 10mm Allen key.
But before pulling the axle I would make sure that the rear quick-release is tight enough to prevent creaking under hard pedaling loads.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real8/30/19 1:51 PM |
Circa
05
I have three rides on it and it has quieted quite a bit. I think it was related to new rings and chain had not become friends yet.
So far I haven't crashed yet and my ride today had some "flow". I think I have not been looking far enough down the trail and thinking ahead. I got better today. My rides are 100% single track.
I can tell that MTB riding is hard on a drivetrain. The dirt and grit are all over it after every ride.
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH8/30/19 5:08 PM |
It sounds like this is your first MTB. Yeah, it's a very different world from road riding!
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX8/30/19 5:46 PM |
No TXTing drivers, but..
Take me home, oh mudda fadda, take me home, I hate Grenada
Don't leave me out in the forest...
...where I might get eaten by a bear
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real8/31/19 6:31 PM |
I last rode a MTB in 2005. So 14 years ago makes it pretty much a new experience.
I rode a lot when station in Korea in 2001 but much of that was just dirt roads. Singletrack there often led to razor tape and mine fields from the the war, it still isn't all cleared.
They built some trails in the local state park about 8 years ago so I am riding those. It is all tight wooded stuff with very little technical skills are required.
I didn't ride much years ago because my horsepower outran my skills and I crashed spectacularly one time to many. I am MUCH slower now so that won't be an issue. Shit I am just riding flat pedals right now. Though I did order some spds today.
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henoch
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 1690
9/2/19 7:40 AM |
MTB is fun, enjoy the ride!
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real9/9/19 7:30 AM |
Drivetrain quit grinding. I think it was the never turned rings and cassette. In fact it is very smooth now. From what I have read the fork can be hit or miss. I don’t have a rebound adjustment on mine and those seemed to be the ones that issues. It works well for me.
I put a GoPro on my handlebars the last ride. It makes the entire route look like flat ground. I will do it again with it pointed differently to see if that is better.
Any suggestions for shoes? Budget friendly please.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX9/9/19 10:14 AM |
I have done well with Lake. Shimano used to be Lakes, dunno if still are. I have 22 year old Shimano Shoes that are still usable.
Note the weights. Not saying you need expensive super light shoes, but some are inordinately heavy.
I have found dirt/mud and velcro closures don't stay sticky as long...
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sanrensho
Joined: 20 Feb 2004
Posts: 835
Location: North Vancouver9/9/19 4:48 PM |
Hi Erik. I agree with Sparky, Shimano shoes are built like tanks.
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henoch
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 1690
9/10/19 12:00 PM |
Find something that fits you well, in general I have found that in MTB shoes I am less worried about stones then in road shoes.
I have a pair of Scott shoes that I found fits me the best, so while it isn't the best shoe out there perhaps, it is the best for me.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real9/13/19 1:57 PM |
Ordered Shimano Shoes
The shoes will be in next week. I rode again today and made a little video. I tried last time I rode and can't seem to figure out how to set the camera so it depicts the grades. It all looks flat.
https://youtu.be/u2y9_pCKqt0
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX9/13/19 2:23 PM |
Still got your bikers quads, good job! ;)
Nice out there with no exhaust fumes and folks looking at little GUI devices upon you out on the road, eh?
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real9/13/19 3:03 PM |
Yeah, still can't find pants that fit.
Any idea how to position the camera so it shows the grades?
I saw a buck. I most likely won't see one all deer season but I saw one today. LOL
The trees and sand are almost as sketchy as the cars and phones.
All of this ride was in a local state park. I started to do another trail too, but as you may see, it was so damn hot. The sweat was pouring off me.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real9/13/19 3:39 PM |
https://youtu.be/2ZtDCL4WGr0
Forward view of the same section of trail.
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daddy-o
Joined: 12 Apr 2004
Posts: 3307
Location: Springfield9/14/19 1:08 PM |
Tie it into an attitude indicator, are you still in that business? It won't add many kilos but attached to the handlebars you might notice some sluggishness in the handling. In other words, "no idea." Good to see your post, hope one and all are healthy.
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dan emery
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 6890
Location: Maine9/14/19 2:23 PM |
‘tude
An attitude indicator will add a whole new dimension of data.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real9/14/19 6:16 PM |
ADI is a little much
A bit heavy also as mentioned. I think they make some of the cameras that show inclination now and some are GPS enabled also. I don't need to drop the change into one of those for goofing around. I think Panasonic markets one that does that stuff.
As far as health goes. Both of us are fine. I never have gone back to long distance or long time bike rides though. I am still fearful of messing up what I have through dehydration. My daughter has gained a ton of weight, in part due to the meds and in part to being lazy and not eating right. Being alive is what is important.
Thanks for asking.
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH9/15/19 4:33 AM |
"Any idea how to position the camera so it shows the grades?"
The best videos I've seen have been shot with the camera attached to the rider, rather than the bike, either on their helmet or a chest mount. It reduces the amount wagging back and forth, and any vibration seems more realistic, since it's what the
rider
is experiencing, rather than the bike. Helmet cam videos tend to track the riders eyes, which is also more realistic. Both systems do seem to highlight gradients better, since the camera is not always parallel with the ground. That said, gradual changes in grade are not going to be very evident; where you really see it is on jumps and drops.
Last edited by Brian Nystrom on 9/16/19 4:37 AM; edited 1 time in total
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