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Experience with Rotor 3D+ cranks?
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4144
Location: Nashua, NH

5/22/18 1:46 PM

What do you want to see?

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16640
Location: Portland, OR

5/22/18 1:59 PM

The NDS has me curious, and the BB etc.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4144
Location: Nashua, NH

5/23/18 5:37 AM

The bike has a standard 68mm threaded BB shell and I have the crank installed in a BSA30 BB, which looks just like a typical external BSA BB, only larger in diameter. No spacers were required, just a turn or so on the preload adjuster. I guess what I'm saying is that there's not much to see.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3214
Location: NorCal

5/23/18 5:19 PM

This is the BBRight version that I will be getting converted.
The SLK 30mm crank has the BSA 30 bb cups on it.



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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16640
Location: Portland, OR

5/23/18 5:22 PM

Is that a little allen or torx locking bolt I see on the NDS bearing?

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4144
Location: Nashua, NH

5/24/18 5:41 AM

That's the preload adjusting ring. You use it to take up any slack in the fit between the crank and BB, then tighten the locking screw. Rotor sent me three .5mm spacers, but I couldn't fit even one of them in; all that was necessary was the preload adjuster.

I contacted both Rotor and Loctite about cleaning excess retaining compound from the spider-to-crank arm interface (it's not clear if they put it there intentionally or if they're just sloppy). Rotor recommended a butane lighter or torch to soften the Loctite 271 (red) that they use on the lockring and spider. Loctite says that methylene chloride will soften it overnight. The latter is the major component in many paint strippers, so I'll try that on the crank I have coming in.

On the crank I mounted on the bike, I had no trouble removing the lockring without heating it. I used Loctite 242 (blue) on the threads and nothing between the spider and the crank arm splines.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3214
Location: NorCal

5/24/18 9:24 PM

That preload ring is a much better way to take the slack out of the bearings than using a wave washer that causes bearing drag. Shimano's plastic preload nut accomplishes the same thing without added drag, unlike Campy or FSA.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4144
Location: Nashua, NH

5/25/18 6:13 AM

Agreed. RaceFace/Easton uses the same system in the Cinch cranks.

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16640
Location: Portland, OR

5/25/18 10:43 AM

"What do you want to see?"

We have a BB-Right Gossamer 34/50 chainset. 30mm spindle. So this is what I like to see to understand the BSA-BB30 in use.

How much did the BSA-BB30 Bottom brake cost?
It may be moot to try to invest to get this 800 gram Gossamer chainset to work.

Also, how much additional weight in that cinch part add to the BB weight?

Thanks David for the pic. It is a whole lot more impressive to me you made the effort to help answer and posted the pic. Brian did not seem to be interested much in participation once he had his solution. But was happy to solicit help prior to that. There, got that outta the way.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3214
Location: NorCal

5/25/18 3:26 PM

Maga Evo = BB90(?)

https://www.bikenashbar.com/cycling/specials-10000/week-of-05-14-7000000000000001035/moving-sale-components-up-to-85-off-7000000000000001043/fsa-megaevo-bsa-68mm-73mm-bottom-bracket-yb-mebb-base

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 16640
Location: Portland, OR

5/25/18 3:29 PM

Yeah, saw the BB on Nashbar.

Am I missing something?

Not going to work on the BBright unless you can put shims between the Shell and the cup. Not enough threads engaged then I guess.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3214
Location: NorCal

5/25/18 4:21 PM

My Rotor bbRight spider setup doesn't expose enough spindle length (90mm) for use with the threaded cups. The standard spider would be thinner to allow that, at which point bbRight is completely out of the picture.

I learned plenty from all of Brian's info fwiw, once installed there actually is very little to see, as he said. Mine were just sitting here uninstalled so full bike porn on display(?).

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 4144
Location: Nashua, NH

5/26/18 7:42 AM

Thanks for the vote of confidence DDDD

Sparky, I don't know what you want from me. Do you expect me to tear the bike apart to take pics for you? I don't have any convenient place to post them anyway.

If you look at that posted pics of the crank, you can see that the spider is very wide at it's base, with hollows machined into it. The lockring has a tapered spacer built in as well. These combine to effectively create an 11mm spacer on the right side of the crank. The parts I replaced eliminated this built-in spacer, creating enough room for the external cup of the BSA30 BB. There is no issue with the left side.

The Gossamer crank is a different animal. I haven't seen a BBright-specific Gossamer in person, so I'm not sure how it's made. However, it appears that FSA made BBright-specific cranks up until recently, so it's probably not a universal fit like the 3D+ with the standard spider.

Assuming that the right crank arm is designed for BBright without spacers, it should work on a BB30 or PF30 frame if mounted directly to bearings installed in the BB shell. You would need an 11mm spacer on the left side. It would not work with an adapter and a BSA 30 BB.

Probably the only way for us to tell from afar is for you to measure the length of the spindle from the spider to the outside of the left-side bearing seat. If it's 86mm or more, it's a universal-fit crank. If it's more like 75mm, it means that the right side is spaced for BB 30 and could only be installed as I described above.

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