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Pedals
 

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KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3234
Location: Midland, MI

6/5/17 1:48 PM

Pedals

Two parts to this: repairing my Campy ProFit pedals and, barring that, new pedal recommendations.

Bearing failure on a Campy ProFit pedal. Cartridge bearings appear to be pressed onto the pedal axle (haven't tried to remove them yet). Should I just find somebody with a gear puller to see if these pull off, take measurements (inner and outer) and press on new bearings? I'm worried that maybe they were assembled with liquid N2 shrinking of the pedal axle or some other process that makes them impossible to repair. I guess I have nothing to lose by trying to have the bearings pulled. What would be a good source for replacement bearings? My first pair of ProFits have nearly 150K miles on them and the bearings are still pristine. Disappointed that this one only lasted 54K miles.

If the bearings cannot be replaced, or at least not replaced at a reasonable cost, what pedals would get everyone's vote? Road pedals, not MTB. My wife rides Speedplays and I maintain them so am familiar with them.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

6/5/17 2:26 PM

I don't know about how they're installed...

...but it seems unlikely that they'd be a shrink fit. Worst case, you can cut them off with a Dremel, but that shouldn't be necessary.

I'd check first with Enduro (https://www.endurobearings.com/) to see if they sell the correct size. Barring that, OEM Campy bearings may still be available and there are lots of other bearing suppliers out there. I've used VXB(http://www.vxb.com/) in the past with good success.

As for new pedals, I'd go with Speedplay Zeros. They work great and it will be simpler for you to maintain just a single brand of road pedals and cleats.

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KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3234
Location: Midland, MI

6/7/17 3:31 PM

Turns out the bearings were just pressed on and relatively easily removed from the (two step) shaft. My old Vernier calipers say the two shaft sizes are 7.1 and 9.1 mm but I assumed they were really 7 and 9 mm. Then I put my 7 and 9 mm open end wrenches on the shafts and they were a bit loose. I suppose that open end wrenches are always a bit oversized to deal with manufacturing tolerances. Do you think I can conclude that the shafts are really 7.0 and 9.0 mm? I haven't had time to dig into bearing sizes available and I suppose that will tell the tale.

At any rate, I was able to find some Campy ProFits still available, so for now I've ordered a set to have on the shelf or as a replacement if I can't get the bearings needed to repair the current pedals.

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Matthew Currie
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 800
Location: Vermont

6/7/17 3:58 PM

I am only using Shimano MTB pedals these days and mostly indoors, in part because the rescue squad cut the Sidis off my feet a few years ago....but I will mention, in case it has not been mentioned before, that my Speedplay pedals, which had never once in several years unclipped accidentally (and which, thanks to Kerry, were freshly equipped with new shoe cleats), unclipped at just the right time when I was hit, and though I broke a bunch of things and came a bit closer to the brink than I care to remember, my ankles were not even sore. I vote Speedplay.

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stan
Joined: 14 Feb 2004
Posts: 467

6/7/17 5:46 PM

Speedplay

This is really moot since Kerry posted ordering new Campy pedals, but I would go with Speedplays. I'm strictly SPD-SLs becuase that's what I have on several bikes and don't want to deal with miltiple shoes as well. But if I was starting over, Speedplay is the way I'd go.

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Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2625
Location: Canberra, Australia

6/8/17 3:32 AM

As my old Look eggbeater clones have starting wearing out, and Crank Bros have changed the design of their cleats for the worse (they now lack the ears on the side that gave some stability), I purchased a couple of pairs of Speedplay Syzr pedals and cleats as replacements.

So far, I'm really happy with them - they clip in and out easily, and you can adjust the range of float to as much or as little as you want - I use the little adjustment grub screws in the cleat to get the shoe at the exact angle I want and have them set so there's no float at all. The pedals also have a built-in grease port, so re-greasing the bearings takes only a couple of minutes.

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Campyman
Joined: 14 Mar 2004
Posts: 52
Location: Wausau, WI

6/8/17 5:31 AM

Pro Fit Pedals

Check eBay, there are always Pedals and parts to be had.
I also use Pro Fit Pedals and have 5 Sets. I need to stock up on cleats and hooks as I don't know how much longer they will be around.

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

6/8/17 5:53 PM

I'm wedded to the simplicity and stability of Shimano SL's, especially since at my weight the rubber pads don't tend to get scraped off. I also like the wide range of prices and quality, while all models use the same cleats.

I have old one-sided 1056 SPD pedals from 1992 that use the SPD mtn cleats and have no float. Being able to adjust the cleat engagement angle with a grub screw would simplify cleat mounting, but I have become proficient at setting cleat position by eye.
One set of the replacement SL cleat sets I bought has no float, again no problem though.

I swear by my Harbor Freight $10 digital calipers, which are easily calibrated with any Gr25 ball bearing.
My first such caliper went 8 years before started reading .004" low after each zeroing, so this back-lash type of hysteresis should at least be checked for every so often. I check my shoe's cleat screws for tightness even more often!

I put shoes very high on the list of things that can be determinant of overall comfort level while (and after) cycling.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

6/9/17 10:43 AM

Nick, I'm curious about the Syzrs

From what I've read, it sounds like they'd be great on walkable road shoes, but they really suck off-road (inadvertent releases, jamming and not releasing, not engaging when muddy, etc.). How have you used them and what have you found?

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Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2625
Location: Canberra, Australia

6/10/17 6:57 PM

I use the pedals for touring, so I've used the Syzr pedals mainly on bitumen and fire trails - no really rough single track stuff as an MTB rider would encounter. I haven't had them clogged up with mud yet, so can't comment on their behaviour in that situation, but in the riding I've done with them I haven't had any problems with inadvertent releases or problems clipping in or out.

One downside that some people will encounter is that because the float is built into the cleat rather than the interface between the cleat and pedal, the entry angle into the pedal is same as your last exit angle. So if you have any amount of float in the cleat, you have to put your foot at the same angle as you twisted it to release in order to re-engage. I haven't encountered this problem because I have the float screwed down to nothing.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

6/11/17 6:20 PM

I figured that you were probably using them for touring

It sounds like an ideal application for them, as it avoids the pitfalls that some people have reported.

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