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dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2815
Location: hillbilly heaven10/15/15 10:42 AM |
How much too long can spokes be?
Thinking about changing the rim on wheel with a 604 ERD to a rim with a 601 ERD. The spokes will be 1.5mm longer than ideal. Are there enough threads or do you think the nipple will bottom out before reaching tension?
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Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2626
Location: Canberra, Australia10/15/15 6:33 PM |
Depends on the particular brand of spoke and nipple. Some allow a bit more of the spoke to protrude through the top of the nipple before the thread bottoms out. But from my experience 1.5mm will be too much - both DT and Sapim, for example, only allow a bit less than 1mm to protrude before the thread bottoms in the nipple.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX10/15/15 9:47 PM |
have some nipple washers in hand...
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sanrensho
Joined: 20 Feb 2004
Posts: 835
Location: North Vancouver10/16/15 12:05 AM |
With the current rim, how far do the nipples thread onto the spokes? It might be that the spokes were 1+ mm short in the first place, since spokes come in 2 mm increments anyway.
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Jesus Saves
Joined: 16 Jun 2005
Posts: 1150
Location: South of Heaven10/16/15 7:48 AM |
Adding to the other comments, I value my time more than the cost of a new set of spokes. If you do too, as nice as it it is to reuse, then I would get a new set. It will be well worth the peace of mind and potential savings in time, which for wheel building is not trivial.
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dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2815
Location: hillbilly heaven10/16/15 10:01 AM |
It will come down to whether I rounded up or down the first time. As far as saving time, transferring the existing spokes to a new rim is very fast and that is the attraction. The wheel only has a few hundred miles on it, so the spokes are known to be good.
I'll pull the rim tape off and see how deep the nipples are.
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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal10/16/15 12:08 PM |
I believe there are hex nipples with taller heads, some with anti-loosening plastic insert as well.
Thanks for the heads-up on those washers, will be a good thing to have on hand!
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX10/16/15 12:31 PM |
I don't think I will build non eyelet rims without washers anymore... FWIW
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH10/19/15 5:39 AM |
Why not?
I've never built with washers on alloy rims and it doesn't cause any problems. I do add one rim preparation step and that is to burnish a tiny chamfer on the inside of the spoke holes using a tool I made from a Phillips screwdriver. That eliminates sharp edges that could dig into alloy nipples. With brass nipples, it's not strictly necessary, but it doesn't hurt.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX10/19/15 10:19 AM |
I also knock down the edge of the spoke hole internally the same way. Still will even with washers out of habit and procedure. That is less work that picking up the dropped washers. ;)
Why not? Just make sense to me and I almost always use 7075 AL spokes.
You can keep doing what you are doing though. ;) I still like rims with eyelets, about to do a CL25 Pacenti set in fact, sans washers
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KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3236
Location: Midland, MI10/21/15 4:40 PM |
7075 spokes?
quote:
I almost always use 7075 AL spokes.
Are you building exclusively MAVIC wheels? I always use stainless steel spokes. I've never really trusted aluminum spokes.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX10/21/15 4:43 PM |
I meant nipples, sorry...
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dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2815
Location: hillbilly heaven10/31/15 4:21 PM |
It worked. I bought the nipple washers Sparky linked to and used them. I don't know if I needed them but I used them any way. I have 1 more wheel set to trandfer over to A23 rims, but the spoke length is with 1/2 mm as far as I can tell.
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