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SRAM X5 shifters
 

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Pat Clancy
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 1353
Location: Manchester, CT

3/1/14 6:34 PM

SRAM X5 shifters

Some months ago I posted a question about 26" vs. 29" mountain bikes. Given the positive feedback on 29" wheels, I'm looking at a Specialized Rockhopper Comp 29. This bike has a 2x10 setup with SRAM X5 shifters. I have no experience with SRAM components. Can anyone comment on SRAM in general and the X5 shifters in particular?

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dfcas
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 2815
Location: hillbilly heaven

3/1/14 8:21 PM

I've had mountain twist shifters, rear derailleurs, and cassettes. All were fine, but I have not had trigger shifters, nor have I had any road stuff.

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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real

3/2/14 4:00 PM

I have used Rival for a couple of years. Shifts feel between S and C. Solid yet softer than C. Cables are clulgy unless you keep them spotless. Seem to last pretty well though I may upgrade to Red this year when I graduate from college. My brain is used to double tap now and I don't want to retrain it.

SRAM offers good bang for the buck.

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Craig
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 591

3/3/14 1:44 AM

I HATE SRAM stuff. I hated the first iteration of grip shi(f)t, the X-Ray stuff, the AVID stuff they bought, I hated what they did to SACHS chains, their cassettes are awful, TruVativ cranks suck and their rings shift poorly. Double Tap shifters are blah, their road front derailleurs don't work, their cables are a joke.

But their MTB trigger shifters are great. At least at the X-9 level. I swapped out the OEM cables with Shimano stainless cables and housing on both sets I have and they have been pretty much flawless since. I felt that the Shimano trigger shifters were starting to feel a bit light and vague. SRAM triggers feel solid and positive. You'll probably love them.

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX

3/3/14 2:17 AM

Only had my hands on SRAM stuff for a bit in 2011 when I worked at the bike shop. I agree the high end MTN trigger shifters are good. I was going to go SRAM for my 10s upgrade from DA 9s. Text drove a few bikes with all but the RED and just did not see how I could take that over 10s Dura Ace and the Buttery feel. But also agree folks who like deliberate clicks accentuated like the 8-9 Speed Campy ERGOs I have ridden might like it fine. Seemed like a lot if the SRAM Double Taps were coming back in a lot with us having to fiddle to keep them shifting well. But Lord knows what folks were doing with these bike as filthy as they would come in.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH

3/3/14 6:42 AM

I don't know what Craig's issue with SRAM is, but...

...I've used their stuff for years on mountain bikes and I love it. It works great, it's typically pretty light and it's the best value on the market. I also like the fact that if I break something - which happens in mountain biking - I can get any part I need to repair it (unlike Shimano, who expects you to throw it away and buy a new one). Although my first MTB came with Shimano derailleurs, I switched it to SRAM when I upgraded from 8 to 9 speed and I've had SRAM on both of my other MTBs. It just keeps getting better with each generation. I even have a SRAM XO front derailleur on my 'cross bike, albeit with a Campy shifter.

I cannot comment on the X5 specifically, because I haven't used it, but I think I would trust mid-low priced SRAM more than Shimano.

On the road, I prefer Campy, but SRAM would definitely be my second choice. Linda has SRAM on her 'cross bike and Shimano on her road bikes, and I find the SRAM gear to be much easier to work on and tune.

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19083
Location: PDX

3/3/14 12:26 PM

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/controls/shifter/pls_142_830_50crx.aspx#productlisting


MTBR review posts seems to be that the 7 are a lot more desirable maybe...

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mfurtick
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 51
Location: Lexington, SC

3/4/14 7:08 AM

SRAM

I have X5 shifters and have had no significant issues. I have had big issues w/ X5 brakes - seem to get sticky after a while and won't fully release, require frequent bleeding (get tight feeling). In SRAM's defense, they tried to make them right - new pads, cables, fluid and calipers (twice), The last set of calipers is much better but not Shimano good. Son had X3's with issues and SRAm replaced w/ X7's (should have put teh X7's on my bike, he seldoms rides anymore). X7's are good.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH

3/5/14 6:36 AM

Or bypass the problem

There's always the option of Bikes Direct, where you get higher-end components for a given price point.

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/mountain_bikes.htm

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

3/6/14 4:51 PM

Ok, this one's ten years old now, but I bought it in December in large part because it was all-Shimano and weighs 16.8 w/pedals.
Ten years old, with enough mileage to have heavily worn down the rims (even here, in CA), and almost everything (but chain/cassette, cables, tape & tires) is original and the crankset still shifts like a new professional crankset should.

What this has to do with SRAM X-5, I have no idea, but I did once have an X-9 rear derailer break in half without any noticeable impact having occurred, and I have at times struggled with SRAM crankset's front-shifting woes that local shops seemed not able to fix. ;-)

Whoops, and did anyone notice the calipers are Force? Yeah, the previous owner decided to keep the 7800 caliper for his new bike, btw he gets two quick-releases per brake, I get none.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

3/6/14 5:53 PM

Pretty looking bike


quote:
he gets two quick-releases per brake, I get none.

Hmmm... hope you don't ever have broken spoke and need to "open up" the brake to get home...

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

3/7/14 12:41 AM

I carry a 5mm hex key that I could loosen or even remove a caliper with, it's the only size that I normally carry.

And with the 23mm tires, the wheels come out freely, no need for QR's.

I think the bike has maybe 10 or 15k miles on it, the little ring feels a little rough with the new chain. I payed $700, and I think it cost 4k with these wheels in 2004.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH

3/7/14 6:21 AM

Another advantage of Campy...

...is that the Q/R is in the lever, which means that they work with any caliper and you always have full braking capability. When you flip a caliper-mounted Q/R, that brake is essentially non-functional. The Campy system is such a simple and functionally superior design that I don't understand why the two "S" companies don't do something similar. Other companies like Weinmann had similar systems back in the '70's, so there's not likely to be any patent issues.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

3/7/14 8:17 AM


quote:
When you flip a caliper-mounted Q/R, that brake is essentially non-functional.

Not true.

Shimano's qr can be open a little bit or a lot (it's even got "clicks" as you move that little tab in the qr). I've helped others to open their brake just wide enough so they can get home. The brake is still quite functional, even though it now sits a little further away from the rim.

Are you confusing them with canti brakes?

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dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

3/7/14 12:54 PM

It does scare me a little, seeing riders riding with their QR fully relaxed.

I never know if they leave it that way with the cable adjusted to match, as a safety precaution, so they can't be left w/o brakes after perhaps changing a tire.
Or, if the tighter cable adjustment can effect a parking brake effect to deter theft, just by flipping the QR to tighten the caliper.

The combination of worn pads, infrequent cable adjustment and a QR lever left "open" might cause a panic situation when the rider goes for the brakes.

But a short-fingered rider might also be subject to panic if they couldn't reach an Ergolever in it's relaxed position!

So looks like I just convinced myself that I'm better off w/o any QR's, and who knows, this is prob'ly lighter. I just need new pads to make the brakes quieter and more rim-friendly to my worn Ksyriums.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH

3/8/14 7:50 AM

Reaching the lever

I do the vast majority of my riding and braking from the hoods, where the Q/R does not cause any issues whatsoever, but you're right that it increases the reach to the lever when you're in the drops.

Regarding April's comment, while that's true, it depends on how warped the wheel is and how much lever travel the brakes have. For a person with small hands, who's brake levers are adjusted to accommodate, you'll lose most, if not all of a brakes functionality when you release the Q/R, even part-way.

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Pat Clancy
Joined: 13 Jan 2004
Posts: 1353
Location: Manchester, CT

3/8/14 12:12 PM

Best of both worlds

When I was building up my Independent Fabrication touring bike, I bought some new bits, like Shimano long reach calipers with the usual QR's, and transferred from the cursed Co-Motion the Cane Creek brake levers with their Campy-style QR buttons. Open up both QR's and you can easily install or remove any tire that will fit in the fork, regardless of inflation.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

3/8/14 9:32 PM


quote:
For a person with small hands, who's brake levers are adjusted to accommodate, you'll lose most, if not all of a brakes functionality when you release the Q/R, even part-way.

Only true when braking from the drops. For braking from the hood, it makes little difference, as you yourself so observed.

More over, even a fully openned brake, only increased the reach by a few center meters. Sure, long enough for a small hand rider. But 1) they wouldn't need to reach for the brake during the climb, 2) once crested the top, the rider can simply reach out and pull the brake partway in. It will drag when the lever is half pulled in, but now she's descending, the brake rub is not a problem.

Between riding in the hood and grabing the brake half way in on long descends, a partially openned brake should be quite serviceable even for small hand riders! Been there, done that.

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