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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/1/13 6:29 PM |
Help me spend my money
I figured I'd use a subject line likely to catch your attention.
I want to move to a compact crankset on my lightweight project bike - 15 lbs including pedals, but I put this baby together about 8 years ago.
So this is a weight-weenie callout - what would this group recommend? I'm currently running Campy Record 10-speed shifters and derailleurs. I don't want to sacrifice performance, but I don't put out much by way of power. I'd be willing to upgrade to 11-speed if there were any benefits to doing so. Suggestions?
(Suggestions to pop for a new bike a la Sandiway's recent shop visit unnecessary - that is already being considered!!)
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19092
Location: PDX10/1/13 6:58 PM |
A little ambiguous on the goal perhaps. Are goals making it lighter? geared lower? more comfortable?
All of the above??
Like all new bars, stem, seatpost etc? Or just trying to get it up hills @ little higher RPM?
Wheels? no not calling Bill, new wheels? ;)
How about a pic for the canvas/thread.
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real10/1/13 7:19 PM |
The Red crank did not surprise me at all.
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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC10/1/13 8:03 PM |
quote:
I don't want to sacrifice performance, but I don't put out much by way of power.
quote:
I want to move to a compact crankset
Really? And you want to move to compact... why?
I guess I'm also confused as to your goal (besides spending some money...).
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ErikS
Joined: 19 May 2005
Posts: 8337
Location: Slowing boiling over in the steamy south, Global Warming is real10/1/13 8:20 PM |
A compact won't slow down anyone who frequents this forum.
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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/1/13 9:32 PM |
I said this was for my lightweight bike, right? Since the primary benefit of a lightweight bike is climbing, I figure I should put some gearing on it more appropriate for climbing without the added weight of a triple.
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19092
Location: PDX10/1/13 9:35 PM |
ahhh... missed putting that together. How about carbon clinchers too?
Sandi's link seem to cover contemporary crankset choices pretty fully. I am so behind it is not funny.
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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC10/1/13 9:46 PM |
figure out what gear-inch you need
quote:
I figure I should put some gearing on it more appropriate for climbing without the added weight of a triple.
So you want to swap out the triple with a compact double!
I'm assuming you have some gears you don't need right now, So you know what gear range you need in the new setup. Will a compact work with your current cassette and give you the range you need?
If you need to go to a larger cluster, that would ADD a few grams in the rear and slightly offset the weight saving of the compact.
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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/2/13 1:35 AM |
The idea is to swap out the standard double for a compact double.
I've got a triple on my 19 lb bike and a standard double on my 15 lb bike and where's the sense in that?
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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5101
Location: Nashua, NH10/2/13 5:06 AM |
I don't see...
...the FSA K-Force Lite crank listed, but it should fall somewhere between the Record and the QRC2 in the graph,. I've got two of the older (2008) models and the new ones are supposed to be considerably lighter. They're reasonably priced, too.
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greglepore
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 1724
Location: SE Pa, USA10/2/13 6:15 AM |
My fave is a set of old Topline mtb cranks mounted with a 50/34. You'll need a longish BB spindle, preferably ti, but it works great with a 9 or 10 spd Campy on my Anvil. They're under 400 g and will be fine for a light guy like you. Only issue is tht the pedal holes aren't drilled thru, so you can't use Keo's or other pedals that only tighten by an allen from the rear.
Not listed here, but a nice reference: http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings/components.php?type=cranksets
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dan emery
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 6894
Location: Maine10/2/13 6:22 AM |
go retro
A nice Rene Herse crankset has a claimed weight of 540g, and a huge range of chainrings. I saw a 44/28 on a Peter Weigle rando bike at D2R2. Plus, it's not Fugly! Yeah, I know you won't want it...
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Jesus Saves
Joined: 16 Jun 2005
Posts: 1150
Location: South of Heaven10/2/13 6:38 AM |
Quelle probleme?
Remove the big chain ring and front dérailleur. And while you are at it switch to an even smaller chain ring. That should save a few more grams. Voila! Compact crank, reduced weight and all without spending money.
Alternatively, you could go with a Shimano Alfine 11 speed setup. Some else here could do the math to see if that setup would actually save weight.
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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/2/13 10:24 AM |
Whoa - I just saw that SRAM has an 11 speed 10-42 cassette for their mountain gruppo! I wonder if I can pair that up with a compact crankset . . .!!!
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19092
Location: PDX10/2/13 11:21 AM |
"11 speed 10-42 cassette"
Probably unlikely you'd approve of the ratios/gaps for road use. I hate when I am missing the 16 for example. Not to mention what you'd have to do derailleur wise to get fast shifting...
JesueSaves, 38 tooth would be the smallest on a 130 bolt circle crank. He did not say, but may have a 135 Campy on there even.
My geared low bike has a 34/50 and an 11-28 and that is only one gear higher on the low end than the triple w/30/39/52 and a 12-27.
I think a 110 BC with a 28-41 or something might be as low as one might need with a 29 on the rear.
But does the Campy 29 have a 13? You may want higher than that and the use of an 11 may be desirable even with a 48-50 big ring.
Perhaps a 32/48, pretty low, the 28 front is getting into the 20s gear inches wise, unless that is what you really are looking for.
I ran a 36-48 for a decade on the Strong, but spun out on down grades easily with a 12-27. But the big small chain ring shifts where excellent and fast.
But a thought for you and the thread. When I had the 36/48 on the Strong, I pulled a middle cog off a 12-27 and moved the spacer to the top with a steel 30 tooth cog. Sort of funny to put a 1/4 lb cog on a dura-ace cassette. But the 30 GI I netted for climbing/bail out, and it working with no chain or DR change was the ticket for me. But not all system will tolerate a 30 with a short cage DR. You may have some B screw tweaking to do. that cog is on a 12-27 right now on my wives Madone with a a triple. that is 25-6 GI on 700c wheels. If you can't get that spinning you are walking/pushing.
Example
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sanrensho
Joined: 20 Feb 2004
Posts: 835
Location: North Vancouver10/2/13 12:05 PM |
The Fair Wheel Bikes crank shootout is a good reference as far as high end/boutique cranks go.
For older options, their last crank shootout is here:
http://fairwheelbikes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=7916
Note that the Lightning cranks are notorious for creaking, Rotor 3D is not that light (for the money), and Sram Red 22 crankset is now out (609 grams) as another option.
If I had the money, I would just buy the THM Clavicula and be done with it. Since I don't have the money, I'd like to snag a Stronglight Pulsion one of these days.
Last edited by sanrensho on 10/2/13 3:17 PM; edited 1 time in total
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19092
Location: PDX10/2/13 12:07 PM |
Example of ratios on a 34/50 standard compact to my cobbled 36/48. Which was a LX MTB with a narrow BB and the granny removed.
There are some top lines on flEaBay, I always like the minimalist and smooth lines on those. But of course never considered one due to my size/weight.
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Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2626
Location: Canberra, Australia10/3/13 12:57 AM |
My Sugino Alpina cranks for Octalink BB weigh 540g complete with TA Syrius 48-34 chainrings. The Dura-Ace 7700 BB they fit on weighs another 173g. That's an all-up weight including BB of just over 700g, and they look far nicer than a lot of the modern carbon crap. They have extensive scalloping of the back of the spider arms to help keep the weight down, plus they also have the 74BCD mounting holes if you want to turn them into a triple at some point:
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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19092
Location: PDX10/3/13 10:57 AM |
"if you want to turn them into a triple at some point:"
Just a note, the triple BB for those for Ultegra seem to be few and far between. I almost bought a new 6500 triple crank for cheap until looking for a BB turned out to be futile. unless you wanted to make it even heavier with the lower level BB,
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Dave B
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 4511
Location: Pittsburgh, PA10/3/13 2:09 PM |
The 5500 Octalink triple bottom bracket is still readily available and the weight penalty is minor.
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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/4/13 4:49 PM |
Hm-m-m-m - I have an FSA carbon crank on the bike now. I should check the BC. If it's 110, I just need new rings . . . damn, I might not have an excuse to spend real money . . .
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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC10/4/13 9:44 PM |
quote:
damn, I might not have an excuse to spend real money . . .
You could always use lighter wheels!
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PLee
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 3713
Location: Brooklyn, NY10/5/13 4:54 AM |
I already have American Classic aluminum clinchers that check in at something like 1325 gms. Not much out there that will be much lighter than that and still survive NYC potholes.
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dan emery
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 6894
Location: Maine10/5/13 7:31 AM |
Win Win Win Win
Parkin, you need to switch to 650b wheels. That will give you a lower gear, save weight, and allow you to spend alot of needless $. If you can't make the brakes work, just take them off, saving more weight - they just slow you down, and as Cipo said "You brake, you lose."
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