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When to change cable housing?
 

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

7/1/13 8:37 AM

When to change cable housing?

OK, next question on my list, now that I've got the cable heads out and about to put the new one in...

When I was pulling the cable out, I noticed there's some muck that got pull out along with the cable. I think those were mostly collected at the end of the housing. Still, some "stuff" could have gotten INTO the housing.

While I don't ride when it's raining, there's no avoiding occasionally gotten caught by a thunderstorm, or the wet roads afterwards. I seem to recall advice to change at least the section of housing down by the rear derailleur?

I also wonder about any degradation of the liner material inside the housing. These are original cable housing that came with the bike. So it's getting close to 10 years now...

Housings are not expensive. So I could just go ahead and replace them just for the heck of it. But I'm curious as to other people's experience. Anyone who, after changing the cable housing, notice a better shifting performance? Or do you always change it after a cable replacement anyway?

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TJeanloz
Joined: 10 Feb 2004
Posts: 166
Location: Boston, MA

7/1/13 9:43 AM

Shifter housings, I do every time I change the cables. As you say, it's cheap and you might as well.

That little bit of housing down by the derailleur is the most important one. With the extreme curve and the tension on the cable, the cable cuts a groove into the housing over time, and then as it hops in and out of the groove, can cause shifting problems.

Brake housing is much less sensitive, but after 10 years, it's probably not a bad time...

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JohnC
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 1939
Location: Glastonbury, Ct

7/1/13 12:15 PM

I don't do it with every cable replacement, but whenever I think they might be having a problem.

BTW, you hopefully learned a valuable lesson by pulling that "muck" into the housing with the dirty cable end. I try to remember to thorougly clean off the end before pulling out the cable. If the end is frayed so it might damage the housing liner, I cut it off so there's a smooth end.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

7/1/13 12:33 PM

It wasn't just the end of the cable that's got muck on it. It seems to be collected on the end of each section of cable housing. (there're 3-4 separate section of housing on my RD cable, the bottom one has the most, but even the one next to the head tube had quite a bit, probably dirt thrown up by the front wheel)

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JohnC
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 1939
Location: Glastonbury, Ct

7/1/13 3:14 PM

Right. I was incomplete. It's a good idea to clean every section of exposed cable before pulling it through.

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KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3234
Location: Midland, MI

7/1/13 7:02 PM

Simultaneities

IME by the time the cable is ready so is the casing. It seems like the housing gets cut and a little rust is forming, or there's a kink, or, or, or. Unless it was a fluke early cable failure, I would do everything at once.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

7/1/13 8:25 PM

Whilst there're dirts at the end of the housing, there's no rust on the cable. There's no kink on the cable either.

Why did the cable break? I'm not sure. But it was next to the head, which I suppose is the most stressed point.

After nearly 10 years, I'm more than ready to change the housing. I'm just a curious type and like to hear what others think. ;-)

Now, does that means I have to cut cable housing to the exact length to replace each secton...?

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/2/13 5:27 AM

Cables break from fatigue...

...caused by repeated flexing over time. It's normal and will eventually happen to every cable. If the housing is 10 years old, it's way overdue for replacement. Put new cables and housing on it and be done with it; it's not worth debating or stressing over it.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

7/2/13 9:54 AM

No stress. Just curious. It's not like it's distracting any important discussion going on...

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Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

7/2/13 10:29 AM

I find if you are good about sliding the housing back off the STIs, cleaning and lubing the housings last years easily. I do periodically change the last whip section at the rear DR with each cable change, and even during maintenance if warranted. The trick seems to make sure not to let that whip be too short.
12-13" is what I go with, seems to last longest and shift best. If you you don't manage to catch it on shit, which is easier when it is such a big loop/antennae.

Use the split housing to slide the housings out of the stops on the bike and slide them off where they live to clean and lube the important sections. And as said lean the bare part first so you do not slide it over crud in the previously bare sections during your dusting and cleaning. I prefer stainless cables, but really have not seen any longevity difference.

I use tri flow which has not eaten the housing liners on the Shimano housings I always use. We had the petro plastic discussion in the saddle thread, it applies to the housing liners too presumably.

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Jesus Saves
Joined: 16 Jun 2005
Posts: 1150
Location: South of Heaven

7/12/13 3:12 PM

since nobody mentioned it, yet

F@!# cable housing. Go ride a fixie.

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Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/12/13 7:53 PM

Another completely useless post

What's with you? Go thump your Bible.

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daddy-o
Joined: 12 Apr 2004
Posts: 3307
Location: Springfield

7/13/13 6:30 AM

Gentlemen please, a brief humorous opinion might be interpreted as a toe dipped in the waters of forgiveness.

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Evan Marks
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 1652
Location: NYC

7/13/13 9:38 AM


quote:
Go ride a fixie.
Amen, brother.

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April
Joined: 13 Dec 2003
Posts: 6593
Location: Westchester/NYC

7/13/13 9:51 AM

no brakes, no cable, no cable housing! ;-)

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