CYCLINGFORUM.COM - Where Cyclists Talk Tech --- Return To Home

 

    Register FAQ'sSearchProfileLog In / Log Out

 

****

cyclingforum.com ****

HOMECLUBS | SPONSORS | FEATURESPHOTO GALLERYTTF DONORS | SHOP FOR GEAR

Return to CyclingForum Home Page CYCLING TECH TALK FORUM
          View posts since last visit

these pancake 1x cogsets boggle the mind!!!
 Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next

Author Thread Post new topic Reply to topic
Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

6/30/18 2:39 PM

BTW, I got an XT Di2 Right switch for 39.00 in the hopes of hacking it to the cat eye kit. But the mechanical parts use magnets over the epoxy/potted electrics to actuate the circuits. So I may put it out on an Aero bar instead.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

6/30/18 8:32 PM

I used to work in the PCB industry, selling and training operators for automatic optical inspection equipment for three different companies. I'm reasonably handy with a soldering iron, too.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

6/30/18 8:40 PM

The cheapest I am seeing the SW-R600 is like $80.00. Although there is a used one on eBay for 65.00 plus 10.00 shipping. ;)

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

KerryIrons
Joined: 12 Jan 2004
Posts: 3234
Location: Midland, MI

7/2/18 10:14 AM

PCBs

PCBs: Printed Circuit Boards or Poly Chlorinated Biphenyls?

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

7/2/18 3:15 PM

Well, the glued on raised patch on the Di2/STi button sure improved tactile feel and shifting action, zero non shifts. I may put a bigger one on when this one falls off. ;)

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/3/18 10:41 AM

I'm really warming up to that idea. If I added a pad that's 3/16" or so thick, that would create a very distinct feel between the buttons and sort of a stop for my finger if it starts to slide forward. It's certainly worth a shot.

BTW, I checked my ST-R785 levers and they only have a single port, so if I want to try the climbing shifter hack, I'd still have to buy a new junction box. Friggin' Shimano!

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

7/3/18 11:01 AM

The climber wire plugs into a STi port. My glue on is 2mm thick FWIW.

Wait, one port! So you need a wire a port and the switch? Fuck Shimano on that one.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/3/18 11:14 AM

That's my feeling, too. There is only a single port that connects the lever to the junction box. There is a slot below it, but it's smaller than the wire port and it appears to be a dead end.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

7/3/18 8:14 PM

What A junction came with your setup?

I read the port is in there but not accessible due to master/cyl needing the space. Wonder if you could solder it in somehow?


Eighty something post cycling thread... Who'da thunk it? ;)

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/4/18 9:08 AM

I've got the three-port junction box. so I'd have to get the one with five ports.

I took a look at the left lever again and there's an electronic module of some sort that the single Di2 wire plugs into. It's marked "07R MFA00A05" and it appears to have two ports, but the lower one is apparently plugged and it's partially blocked by the lever body. Is this perhaps the same module used in other levers? I'm not sure how any of this comes apart and I haven't seen any exploded diagrams of the lever, so I'm somewhat leery of getting into it.

If you happen to find any information from someone who's already hacked these levers, let me know. I'll keep looking, too.

And yes, it's really nice to talk about bike stuff for a change!

 Reply to topic    

walter
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 4391
Location: metro-motown-area

7/12/18 7:51 AM

rotor has a 52t (!) rear ring for 1x13 shifting

https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/13-speed-hydraulic-mtb-drivetrain-from-rotor-at-eurobike/

<img src=https://images.singletracks.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/IMG_8311-1170x1072.jpg>

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/13/18 7:37 AM

More importantly, they're making 10-36t & 10-39t cassettes, which would be reasonable for use on road/gravel bikes and reduce the size of gearing jumps considerably compared to 10 or 11 speed cassettes. The system uses a 12-speed chain, too.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

7/13/18 12:26 PM

Given the redundancy of hating 11t cog on road bikes observed being stated here and elsewhere, how do we feel about the 10 for non road use?

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Brian Nystrom
Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 5096
Location: Nashua, NH

7/13/18 2:31 PM

I don't like it from a wear and smoothness standpoint, but with a small front chainring like 38 or 40, it works. Rotor is also going to make a 10-46 cassette so there are lots of options. I'd love to see an 11-36 or 12-36, which would work nicely with my 46/30 crank, but I doubt they have any plans to do either. Who knows, perhaps if 1x13 really becomes "a thing" they'll expand their offerings. At the prices that their current hydraulic system sells for, I don't see that happening.

 Reply to topic    

Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2625
Location: Canberra, Australia

7/14/18 11:46 PM

I recently set up a new bike road disc brake bike for my wife using SRAM GX Eagle RD, shifter, 10-50 12-speed cassette, and a 36t 1x chainring on a Deore XT crank. She rides flat bars on the road, so the MTB shifter is perfectly suited. That setup gives her a top gear of 95 and a low of 19, which seems to suit her pretty well for the riding she does. After having ridden dual or triple chainring setups for the past 35 years, she was initially pretty suspicious about only having a single front chainring (thought I was somehow short-changing her), but she now admits to actually liking it.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

8/3/18 11:03 AM

Just a bit of an update:

Order the Sunrace 11-36 black 11s Cassette. 360grams.

I also upgraded the Di2 RD on the Scott to the R8000-GS for the 39T capacity. [+2 of RD-6879-GS, +6 6870-SS]

It sticks out visually a lot less on the all black bike being black. ;)

Now I figured the R8000-GS was going to have no problem with the 36 top. But what I did not expect was the 53T Q-ring was going to play anything close to nice.

Close, but noisey, shift up and stays in gear cross chained to oblivion. I tested it a few cog down on the big ring expecting it to turn the cage horizontal in the top cogs. Nope. Not that youd use this combo, but when you are doing rollers tired and forget you are in the big ring... Nothing Syncro shifing would no combat of course. But My parts is part cheapo Di2 setup ain't Syncro shift ready and I ain't planning on throwing the parts to get it to. [Yet]

Crater lake, [no fire/smoke let's hope] here I come.

Now I need a black chain, wonder how long they stay black? [Maybe I just won't clean this on...]

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

daddy-o
Joined: 12 Apr 2004
Posts: 3307
Location: Springfield

8/3/18 6:46 PM

Good looking drive train. Thought the chain was a deliberate choice.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

8/3/18 6:59 PM

No, just clean. ;)

The RD-R8000 is Shadow Tech too. I did a 30 mile test ride after the post. It shifts perfectly.

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

Nick Payne
Joined: 10 Jan 2004
Posts: 2625
Location: Canberra, Australia

8/4/18 12:29 AM

Here's the 1x12 bike that I just setup for my wife. I bought a Merckx Mourenx disc frame in XS size on closeout. Frame is intended for use with 700c wheels but I used 650b wheels as (in the way that most manufacturers do) all the frame sizes share exactly the same fork, but as the frames get smaller, the head angles get successively slacker, leading to greater and greater trail. Using 650b rather than 700c reduces the trail quite a lot. The smaller wheel size also completely eliminates toe overlap and enabled me to fit 30mm tyres (which actually measure 32mm on the MTB wheels), whereas the largest 700c width that would fit was 28mm.

The drivetrain is SRAM GX Eagle 1x12 - 34t chainring and 10-50 cassette, giving gears from 86" down to 17". The cranks are Deore XT M785 2x10 165mm (also bought on closeout) with the two chainrings replaced by a single narrow-wide chainring, and the wheels are some DT Swiss XM1501 27.5" MTN wheels that I had sitting around (I had to buy new axle ends for the front wheel to convert from 15mm TA to 12mm TA). The tyres are Schwalbe G-One 650b x 30 setup as tubeless. The brakes are Shimano Metrea hydraulic, which were the only hydraulic disc brakes I could find that came as a set with flat mount calipers and flat bar levers.

Initial riding impressions so far are positive. Having used two and three chainring setups for the past 40 years, she was at first very suspicious of only having one chainring, but after a few rides the suspicion seems to have thawed.

<a href='https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipO14dNr2aZ1JYZtS_Ua6HrrbN9Q2QQdB_u_MydCLJaLF_uc67q_9sBdqXgsfyU5aA?key=Q1Q4Q0x1ek90bjRHQlJBMG5QdTBBZzRzQW9pT2xn&source=ctrlq.org'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QOZXcCbCd_CIBVOVsaUSHEaGFK3Nmuize7u714fAV-pM9SdY9d_sa_x_tx6yUhomMvOeDvTSf2EObxPdx7g5h_o20btmu6HbsIw8B1GWKO6CbZmoe9YlBTyOdFXqBoi7ywxm8O_pjQ=w1200' /></a>

<a href='https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipNMR4HFQlXm21WkNtXvDAU_W41KMh_PjJsI8zEiWzPUsC-26Dtk-WMgnixRYfRLsA?key=X2xXaEtqRG4yRGg1d0ZLRVRNUDg0RklaWUtxUDdR&source=ctrlq.org'><img src='https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JC_jiJ87ZYx6I6Mw0mfN76aU9ULlXoWaCdXn5rusnynnFqhX5OGi7O6bkv3972i1zDQN7l2RhuPQewH5xYJ-mAKLtZXVCc2I1FW0rOa6PLvSL8a74uOc3ylhL3-sooR6fazBrsBz_A=w1200' /></a>

 Reply to topic    

dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

8/9/18 9:41 AM

That bike is an interesting build, ready to take on some climbs.
Let us know how the stability is with the tall bar positioning. I'm guessing that some front weighting using panniers will help it work perfectly.

I'd been eyeing a couple of those Merckx frames on sale for a while, then the size I needed disappeared. Suddenly a Merckx Corsa Extra 7-11 appeared locally, so I got my fix without spending much!
It sports an older-tech triple since someone updated it around 2001, so less need for any sort of "pancake" cassette.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

8/9/18 11:13 AM

I'd probably explode looking around your bike stash location. The Merckx is sweet.

----
I revamped yet again my 2000 Strong. I wasn't going to post, but your Merckx pic changed my mind. Plus in the interest of actual TTF bike content....

I was spying that Rocky Mountain Merckx inspired frame a little too much. I have two bikes for sale, if either sells I may still get that RockyMTN and park my 11s Super Record on it. ;) [it is a sickness]

I went deep on cleaning/compounding and decals. Old water slide decals are a bitch and 1/2 to get off all the way to paint surface!

Powder coating is unbelievable for 12-13 years mostly as main bike [except last year maybe]and at least 35,000+ miles on it. I did have a major interruption 2006-9 from the Tib/Fib/Plataeu episode. I can count the finish issues on one hand.

Thus, the Semi Modern/Retro revamp for 2018.


 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

8/9/18 3:29 PM

I was gonna say, the gloss on that thing is unbelieveable, newer than new!

Good thing that you're not into Harleys I guess.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

8/9/18 3:54 PM

It was cloudy and had a ton of fine scratches all over it, and worst in all the spots you'd imagine. I have this airplane paint polish made to clean up emron left over from the old days. It works great, and particularly on the clear powder top coat.

I may send my next frame I paint out for a clear PC.

I diddled a little more with some red accent in the fork crown lug window, and the legs to the rainbow decal.

I also have some Hudz STI rubbers I never used, and ordered some Fizik Performance Classic Touch in Red.




18 year old clear coat is truly in remarkable condition, and this frame has seens lots of NJ rain and salt residue. Although, I'd always clean that salt haze off quick!

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail

dddd
Joined: 11 Jan 2004
Posts: 3345
Location: NorCal

8/9/18 4:16 PM

Some of the clear coats I've come across are quite resistant to polishing efforts.

 Reply to topic    

Sparky
Joined: 08 Dec 2003
Posts: 19068
Location: PDX

8/9/18 4:29 PM

"Some of the clear coats I've come across are quite resistant to polishing efforts"

That is what wet sanding with 600, then 800, then 1000 is for. Then use 1200-15k micro mesh to make it real glassy. End with my polish, and some wax....


Side Note: that is the most left north [sticking out] I have used that Suntace P6 with. It really smooths the more it sticks out to flex. ;) 23mm tires and smooth....


Last edited by Sparky on 8/9/18 6:39 PM; edited 1 time in total

 Reply to topic     Send e-mail


Return to CyclingForum Home Page CYCLING TECH TALK FORUM
           View New Threads Since My Last Visit VIEW THREADS SINCE MY LAST VISIT
           Start a New Thread

 Display posts from previous:   


Goto page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5  Next  
Last Thread | Next Thread  >  

  
  

 


If you enjoy this site, please consider pledging your support

cyclingforum.com - where cyclists talk tech
Cycling TTF Rides Throughout The World

Cyclingforum is powered by SYNCRONICITY.NET in Denver, Colorado -

Powered by phpBB: Copyright 2006 phpBB Group | Custom phpCF Template by Syncronicity